This is how I used to lock the trike before the lag bolts were put into the concrete. The gas company would have had a fit if they had seen that I had locked it to the gas meters.
Detail of a clean Rohloff internal 14-speed hub.
Serial number plate detail and rear dual push-pull Rohloff
cable quick-disconnects.
CfSC members Cathy and Ian trying it indoors at the CfSC AGM.
This is how I lock it inside our co-op. Notice how I loop the cable
through itself and then through the other wheel, then through the lag
bolt and then extend it to another cable. If I am really serious about
locking it, I put the cable through the forward seat bars on both seats.
The room where I park it is a bicycle only parking garage that houses
110 bicycles and it has automatic lighting, automatic street-level doors
and video surveilance. I am able to drive the tandem trike straight
into the room.
These are general views, with a new model CarraDice SuperC without the
heel cutout. The black racks extending upwards from each seat-top was
originally ordered to carry a canoe, but it could be used to carry a
wide variety of things including step ladders, lumber, sheets of plywood
and gyproc, etc. I carried my wedgie (diamond-frame touring bike) home
with it when I originally went to pick the trike up from the shop.
Here is an overhead view of the rear rack detail.
A close-up rear-end view.
I found a handy place to stash my U-lock and two security cables.
These are general views from each side without any bags.
This is the head-on view. I have put on single-sided SPDs and added rat
traps for others to use since they won't be dragging on the ground.
This gives a good view of my asymmetric mirrors, front mudguards,
steering linkage, headlight mount on the otherwise unused emergency
front derailleur tube, timing chain on the (driver's) left and Schlumpf
mountain drive II two-speed transmission on the right in the front as if
it were a passenger tandem. You can also see the spedometer mount and a
bell mounted beside it. I think I will actually move the bell to one of
the handlebars rather than have it on the mirror tube. You can also see
the disc brakes and their hoses.
This is the view from above the front seat showing many of the same
things as the head-on view.
Here is a bit of chain detail, showing the timing chain on the left and
the main drive chain on the right. The main drive chain is probably
about 20' long, likely 4 standard chain-lengths. GreenSpeed supplied
one quick-link in the timing chain for disassembly and two quick links
on the drive chain to be able to convert it easily between tandem and
solo.
These are general views of it flipped over resting on the overhead
racks.
Here are the rear main tube S&S coupling and the Rohloff dual push-pull
cable quick-disconnects. These match up with the front dual push-pull
cable quick-disconnects to accomodate solo mode. Note also the extra
set of unused emergency rear derailleur cable guides. The serial number
plate may look easy to remove, but there is also a hidden location where
it is stamped more permanently.
This blurry view from below the front boom shows many of the same things
as the head-on view.
This is where we see how and where the frame breaks for conversion to a
solo and for packing into a suitcase. To convert to a solo, the S&S
coupling under each seat disconnects, the forward seat bolt from each
seat disconnects, the two sets of dual-push-pull Rohloff shifter cables
disconnect, the timing chain is removed and the drive chain is
shortened. The front seat, rear crank, and both frame members between
the S&S couplings under each seat are completely removed and the frame
is reconnected using the front cranks, front wheels and steering, front
frame, back seat, back wheel and back frame to run solo. The conversion
should only take about 10-15 mins once I sort out a good way to store
chains.